Optimising A General Purpose Axe And Saw Combo For Wilderness Travel
It’s always great when you manage to extract the most from your tools. Of course, this is in good part down to your abilities and skill in using said tools. It’s important to have your tools set up right and to maintain them well, though. Sure a bad workman blames his tools. But the corollary of this is certainly not that a good woodsman should have bad tools. Moreover, when you are spending time in the wilds, you want your tools to be reliable and to stay in good working condition. You don’t want items to break and not be fixable, and you don’t want your tools to degrade just by the mere fact they are in contact with the outside world, even when being put to hard use.
So, in this post, mainly through the video above, I’d like to share with you how I have a general purpose axe and saw set up for wilderness travel. Yes, I have other axes and other saws. This pairing is my baseline. It works perfectly in many situations and would be acceptable, even if not idea, in many others. Hence, I would consider it my most flexible combo.
In assembling this combo, I’ve combined a number of products, not just the axe and the saw but also some of the accoutrements too. Check out the video above for the full details. I also share some handy tips for carrying saw spares. The “Velcro trick” is a particular favourite. Again, check out the video above to see how this works.
In the video I also talk through some improvements I have made to my trusty Gransfors Bruk Small Forest Axe, as well as some of my other axes. Elsehwere on this site I’ve written about keeping your axe in good order. If you want to go the whole hog, though, and furnish your axe handle with a fantastic new finish, which will be an improvement on any manufacturer’s standard handle finish, then check out my free PDF guide.
Get My Free Guide On How To Refinish Axe Handles
- Dramatically improve on standard axe handle finishes, making them more durable, water resistant, with great feel and grip in the hand.
- Step-by-step process explained clearly so you can easily achieve a great finish on your axe handles, old or new.
- High resolution photos used throughout, illustrating all materials and methods.
- Click here to get the free 10-page PDF guide.
Recommended Care Products
Related Material On Paul Kirtley’s Blog
Henry’s folding bucksaw how-to articleCarving A Set Of Utensils For A Frost River Utensil RollHow To Care For Your Axe: 3 Easy StepsAxe Choice For The Northern Forest
Related Material On Paul Kirtley’s YouTube Channel
Wilderness Solo: Berens River Bushcraft Camping TripA Journey On Scotland’s Longest River
My Wilderness Axe Skills And Campcraft Book
Find out more at wildernessaxeskills.com
18 thoughts on “Optimising A General Purpose Axe And Saw Combo For Wilderness Travel”
Thanks for this Paul.
A small modification that I make on my axe and saw handles is to put “hockey tape” on them. I would stress that I do not cover the whole axe handle so that any safety issues with potential splitting of the handle is not visible. However, the tape does provide greater grip on my axes and saws especially when working in wet or cold conditions.
Hi Carlan,
As always, it’s good to hear from you. I agree that hockey tape can make a siginificant difference to the grip of whatever it is applied to. I find it particularly good in cold conditions for reducing thermal conductivity. For example, I add it to snow shovel handles as per this video (from around the five minute mark) https://youtu.be/n5YCI2fekBQ?t=299
Warm regards,
Paul
Great video as always Paul. We do have similar thoughts on many items. This is almost identical to the my typical ace/saw combo carry. I however could not find what I had visioned for my saw sleeve, so I constructed my own. Sent you an email to look at.
Keep up with these amazing video and podcasts. Very happy you brought back “Ask Paul Kirtley”.
Thanks Trevor. I’ve found and read your email. Thanks for sending the photos. I really enjoyed seeing what you had made.
Thanks for your words of support regarding the videos, podcasts, etc. Glad you are happy APK is back too 🙂
Warm regards,
Paul
Great video paul, And your guide on refinishing an axe handle is really good.
I was wondering, for the boreal 21 folding saw would using chicago screws work better than the standard pin and circlip? They’re what I use on my frame saw, they’re solid and much less fiddly than a little clip. Just an idea
Hi Theo,
It’s good to hear from you. Chicago screws might work well. As long as you had an allen key and/or screwdriver in your repair kit to undo and fasten them when changing blades. I might try it and see if they stay fastened OK in use. I was also thinking that a bolt with some form of removeable R-pin might work well. I have some experimenting to do….
Looking forward to catching up on the Expedition Canoeing Skills Course. Maybe we can compare notes on bucksaw blade fixings by then?
Cheers,
Paul
Great video as always Paul. Good length also. I have a Gransfors small forest axe and it is the best. Not just for boys, but for those serious about useful equipment. That saw is new to me. Will check it out. Thanks for the info.
Hi Michael,
It’s definitely worth having a good saw, of an appropriate size, that compliments your axe. When you do, they work so well together.
Warm regards,
Paul
I’ve had one of those Agawa Boreal 21 saws for awhile. I use mine on canoe trips mostly as well. When I bought the saw I bought the extra pins and clips with it straight away. Sometimes when changing a blade those little clips try to take flight. Agawa makes nice cases for their saws as well. Mine came with a very nice quality leather case with a shoulder strap and a separate blade compartment. I believe they make a canvas/cordura one too.
Hi Shane,
Thanks for your comments. It was definitely the prudent choice to purchase the spare clips and pins at the time. I did look at the nylon/Cordura pouch in MEC but I thought it was a bit too bulky, so didn’t add it to my purchase. Your leather case sounds nice though.
Warm regards,
Paul
I think you just sorted out my xmas with that Boreal 21 saw! Henry’s folding bucksaw is definitely a project on my list as well
Haha, yes the Boreal 21 is a handy travel saw for sure. Let us know how you get on with the bucksaw project 🙂
Warm regards,
Paul
Thanks again for a great contribution. I like the velcro idea but I’m also toying with idea of sliding a saw blade between the inner and outer layers of my leather belt. I’m keen to try making an improvised bucksaw for processing firewood at camp.
Hi Joshua, it’s good to hear from you again. I’m glad you liked this article. I’ve known some people keep a saw blade in a specially-made leather belt or to modify one with an inner and outer layer stiched together as you suggest.
Improvised bucksaws are fun to make. I used to always follow the Mors Kochanski method but since seeing it, I prefer the Harlton H-bucksaw, which is an evolution from Mors’s method. It’s definitely worth knowing at least one of these methods in practice, rather than in theory. So, definitely make time to do it.
Warm regards,
Paul
Hi Paul, informative video, as always. Interested in hearing you talk about a steam bent saw. Have you ever thought about making a video to demonstrate this skill? Keep up the good work.
amazing. I haven’t seen the video yet but I noticed something about your axe (a high-quality one indeed) it is a single-bit blade. a wise man once told me that all good woodsmen had double bitted blades. I am not criticizing just noting: a double bitted blade has more blade area, does not require you to look after every swing to see if you are using the right face. also they can more easily act as a makeshift shovel if necessary. (just noting as I am a blade smith myself. they are also harder to make…)
The point of double-bit axes is two fold – first, their balance when the head is horizontal is more stable than a single-bit axe with a similar weight head but second – and this is the main reason for a double-bit axe – you have two different bevel profiles and steels of two different hardnesses. If you take a good double-bit axe and flick the each bit with your finger, they will sound a different note. This is because they are not the same. Nor are they intended to be. So it is still important to choose which edge you are using, as each has a specific purpose.
Double-bit axes are good for day-long serious felling and wood processing. I have one in my collection, along with a full-size (single-bit) felling axe but neither are suitable for journeying. They are too bulky and too heavy. Hence the choice of a smaller axe as described in the video.
As for using a double-bit axe as a shovel? That’s the last thing you want to be doing with a well-made tool. Keep your axe out of the ground! There is a reason arborists use old or cheap axes for digging out roots from the ground. It ruins the edge.
I hope this helps clarify things.
Warm regards,
Paul
Hi Paul, thank you for the video.
Just a couple of thoughts I’ve had and would be interested to hear your thoughts.
Are over strike guards worth having on axes?
I’m currently in the process of designing my own folding bow saw based on Henry’s article, however not having a table saw I’m attempting to make laminated handle sections (x2 12mm thick ash with either 5mm acrylic or walnut in the centre) to create the grove for the blade to be stored. Do you think cast resin milled to form a mortice to accept the cross bar tenon would solve the swelling of the saw when wet?
With regards to carrying oil for tools on trips, I carry a pro shot gun cleaning cloth that comes impregnated will silicon oil. I have used these cloths on my knifes, axes, saws and rifles they seem to work great and saves carrying oil I’m likely to spill everywhere.
Look forward to being able to meet in the woods sometime soon
Richard