Glimpse of a Scottish mountain loch, surrounded by native pine trees

Wild Wanderings 12 – Loch Morlich: A Gem Of The Cairngorms National Park

Paul Kirtley Comments 8 comments

Loch Morlich is a relatively small but scenic freshwater lake in the Cairngorms National Park, Scotland. I’ve visited this area many times and always enjoy a walk around the loch. In this edition of Wild Wanderings, I’d like to share some of the nature and significance of Loch Morlich with you…

Loch Morlich was formed during the last Ice Age, carved out by glaciers. The surrounding Cairngorm mountains, which form a dramatic backdrop to the loch, bear the scars of this glaciation, with features like U-shaped valleys and moraines.

Loch Morlich is easily accessible. The loch is beside the road leading to the Cairngorm ski area. A bus route from Aviemore will bring you right to the loch’s side. Further, Loch Morlich is circled by trails for hiking and biking, which allow you to explore the forests that surround the Loch. These trails link up with the wider trail network found in the National Park. This means you can reach the loch by foot or bike from further afield.

View Loch Morlich on Google Maps.

Draining out of Loch Morlich is the River Luineag, flowing west towards Coylumbridge, where it meets Am Beanaidh, which flows down from Loch Einich. Together, their waters combine to form the River Druie. This short river flows into the River Spey close to Aviemore.

Every year I spend time in this area of Scotland as I run two canoe trips on the River Spey each autumn. In between the two trips I have a day or two free to get out exploring the local area. The River Spey doesn’t require any portaging, so I like to get out for a walk to exercise my legs in between two weeks of largely upper body and core exercise in the canoe. On one of these days this year I decided to go for a walk in the Loch Morlich area.

The Norwegian Connection To Loch Morlich

I parked by the Glenmore Forest Park visitor centre. Here there is a memorial to Kompani Linge, a legendary unit of the Norwegian resistance during World War II.

Stone with wreaths and nearby Norwegian flag — The Norwegian war memorial outside Glenmore Forest Park visitor centre. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Kompani Linge was officially known as Norwegian Independent Company 1 (NOR.I.C.1), a special operations unit created in 1941. The unit was established by the Special Operations Executive (SOE), a British organisation set up to conduct espionage, sabotage, and reconnaissance in occupied Europe. Kompani Linge’s primary mission was to conduct covert operations in Nazi-occupied Norway, including sabotage, intelligence gathering, and training Norwegian resistance fighters. Kompani Linge was named after Captain Martin Linge.

A significant factor in Kompani Linge’s success was their training. This took place in the challenging terrain of the Cairngorms, the closest environment to Norwegian mountain terrain the UK has to offer. Much of their training was centred around Loch Morlich.

Drumintoul Lodge, a Victorian shooting lodge near Coylumbridge, and the old Glenmore Lodge, which is now a youth hostel called Cairngorm Lodge, just north of Loch Morlich, formed STS-26, the SOE establishment for Norwegian training.

The training regimen was rigorous and focused on survival, skiing, navigation, and guerrilla warfare tactics, including explosives. Highly motivated Norwegian soldiers learned how to operate in winter conditions, navigate snow-covered mountains, and carry out sabotage missions with a high degree of self-reliance.

Memorial to Norwegian soldiers of Kompani Linge with Cairngorms in the background, near to Loch Morlich — The memorial to the men of Kompani Linge, with the Cairngorms in the background. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

The dedication on the plaque mounted on the memorial stone is as follows…

“This stone was erected by the people of Badenoch in honour of the gallant company of Norwegian patriots who lived among them and trained in these mountains 1941-1945 to prepare for operations in occupied Norway. By skilful and daring raids on military and industrial targets they harassed the enemy and denied him vital supplies. These dangerous missions were not carried out without losses. 57 brave men of Kompani Linge gave their lives in our common cause.”

Loch Morlich’s Sandy Beach

Leaving the visitor centre, I crossed the road and skirted around Glenmore Campsite, heading down to Loch Morlich shoreline. Here is a surprising large sandy beach. This is one of the unique features of Loch Morlich and unusual for an inland body of water. Moreover, at 310m (1017 feet) above sea level, it is the highest sandy beach in the UK.

The sand is natural. Loch Morlich was formed during the last Ice Age by glacial movement. As glaciers advanced and retreated in the Cairngorms area, they ground down rock into fine particles, including sand. When the glaciers melted, these sediments were deposited around the loch, creating sandy shores. Hence, the beach at Loch Morlich is largely composed of coarse grains of Cairngorm granite.

The large sandy beach of Loch Morlich, skirted by woodland, with the Cairngorms in the background — The large sandy beach at the eastern end of Loch Morlich, with the Cairngorms in the background. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Further, several burns and small rivers feed into Loch Morlich, many running down from the Cairngorm’s Northern Corries. These waterways have carried fine sediments, including sand, down from the surrounding mountains for thousands of years. As the water slows when it reaches the loch, sediment settles and accumulates, contributing to the sandy shoreline.

If you look closely at the sand on the main beach of Loch Morlich, you will also notice a lot of glass. This glass is no longer sharp but rounded due to decades of sand grinding. This glass dates back to Kompani Linge and their use of the beach to practice throwing Molotov cocktails.

I walked along the beach with small waves lapping to my right. I left the beach at its southern end, following the trail to the footbridge over the Abhainn Ruigh-eunachan. In this area I began to encounter some of the common tree species that surround the loch.

Small river that feeds into Loch Morlich surrounded by trees — Abhainn Ruigh-eunachan is a small river that feeds into Loch Morlich. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

The Forest Environment Surrounding Loch Morlich

Silver birch, Betula pendula, downy birch, Betula pubescens, rowan, Sorbus aucuparia, Scots Pine, Pinus sylvestris, aspen, Populus tremula, and common juniper, Juniperus communis make up much of the natural woodland here. Near some of the water courses you will also find common alder, Alnus glutinosa, and a number of willow species, Salix spp.

Classic view of a Scots pine spreading in a Caledonian Forest near to Loch Morlich — Scots Pine, *Pinus sylvestris*, in the Caledonian Forest around Loch Morlich. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

needles of a conifer in fascicles of two — Scots Pine needles are grouped in bundles of two. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

birch woodland near to Loch Morlich in Scotland — Birch woodland on the edge of Loch Morlich. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Glossy, rounded tree leaves, with dimple at the end. Common alder. — Leaves of common alder, *Alnus glutinosa*, from the bridge over Abhainn Ruigh-eunachan. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

A stream flowing through a Scottish forest near to Loch Morlich with a range of tree and plant species around. — A small burn flowing down the slopes toward Loch Morlich, with willows and other species nearby. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Some areas near Loch Morlich contain non-native forestry species like Norway spruce, Picea abies, Sitka spruce, Picea sitchensis, lodgepole pine, Pinus contorta, and European Larch, Larix decidua. As part of woodland improvement and expansion initiatives, however, there have been efforts to remove these “exotic” species, to allow regeneration of native species.

Low lying boggy areas are home to sphagnum moss, Sphagnum spp., cottongrass, Eriophorum spp., and soft rush, Juncus effusus. Drier understorey areas harbour bilberry, Vaccinium myrtillus, cowberry, Vaccinium vitis-idaea, and common heather, Calluna vulgaris.

Pine forest with bilberry, cowberry and heather carpeting the forest floor next to one of the trails near Loch Morlich — Pine woods near Loch Morlich with heather, bilberry and cowberry carpeting the forest floor. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

boggy woodland with sphagnum moss and soft rush — Low lying boggy area of forest, with sphagnum moss and soft rush. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

One of the reasons I enjoy walking around this area is the extent of forest coverage. Surrounding Loch Morlich is Glenmore Forest, which forms part of a contiguous area of forest covering over 25,000 hectares.

To the north is Abernethy Forest, the largest native Scots pine woodland in Britain. This is linked to Glenmore Forest by strips of woodland to both the east and west of the Meall a’ Bhuachaille range of hills. Incidentally, Meall a’ Bhuachaille is the hill I walked with Chris Townsend when we recorded a podcast. To the west of Loch Morlich is Rothiemurchus Forest. This forest links to the forests of Invereshie and Inshriach National Nature Reserve.

View of a Scottish mountain called Meall a’ Bhuachaille from the southern shore of Loch Morlich, with woodland in the middle distance — The summit of Meall a’ Bhuachaille as seen from the south-eastern corner of Loch Morlich. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

These forested areas represent a part of the ancient Caledonian Forest that once covered much of Scotland. This forest is a crucial habitat for wildlife, supporting mammals such as red squirrels, pine martens, roe deer and red deer. It also supports birds like crested tits, Scottish crossbills and the elusive capercaillie.

Red squirrel feeding on pine cones amongst branches of pine tree on southern shore of Loch Morlich — A red squirrel feeding on pine cones. Loch Morlich, October 2024. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

If you choose, you can opt for some very long forest walks in this area. Indeed I’ve undertaken some enjoyable extended hikes in the area. Today, though, I walked a relatively short distance, completing a loop around Loch Morlich.

A Clockwise Circuit Around Loch Morlich

Loch Morlich is relatively small compared to some of Scotland’s other lochs. It covers approximately 3.16 square kilometres (1.22 square miles). The loch is about 1.4 kilometres (0.87 miles) in length and has a maximum width of around 0.8 kilometres (0.5 miles). So, it doesn’t take that long to circuit the loch on the well maintained trails, which create a route of about 6km (4 miles). Walking Highlands suggests 1.5-2 hours, which represents a relaxed pace. You can, of course, spend longer looking at trees, plants and watching wildlife.

Cowberry, a.k.a. Lingon

There is a good amount of cowberry, Vaccinium vitis-idaea, in the forests here. I didn’t see many berries on this particular walk. You can recognise the plant by leathery ovoid leaves that are glossy on the upper surface, have downturned edges and are lighter on the underside with small pores and hairs.

Red berry on a plant with shiny ovoid leaves in forest understorey (Vaccinium vitis-idaea) — The deep red fruit of cowberry, a.k.a lingon, *Vaccinium vitis-idaea*. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Cowberry plant with no berries — Cowberry ovoid leaves with shiny upper surfaces. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Underside of cowberry leaf — Cowberry leaves have a light underside. If you look closely you can see pores with fine hairs. Also note the edges of the leaf are turned down. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Bilberry Bounty!

As I progressed around Loch Morlich I found a few bilberries. These are the European blueberry. The scientific name is Vaccinium myrtillus. Another common name for them is blaeberry. This plant is a relative of the cowberry but, like other blueberries, the fruits are much more palatable than the tart, acidic cowberry.

The first few bilberries I found, however, were a bit past their best being squishy, watery and tasting insipid. I found a few more further down the trail that were better, firmer with a better flavour. Then I hit the motherload, an extensive area of low bilberry bushes laden with fruit. Other hikers were paying them no attention. I got stuck in and ate multiple handfuls. Bilberry is rich in anthocyanins and eating this fruit has a host of potential health benefits.

Bilberry fruit, a purple berry found on low-lying bushes, often under pine trees — The bilberry, *Vaccinium myrtillus*, is the European blueberry. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Bilberry bushes with abundant fruit found near to Loch Morlich, Scotland. — I found an abundant source of bilberries. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

A man's left hand holding many blue berries (bilberries). — Bilberries are good eating and I ate several handfuls before I moved on. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Broom, Juniper and Rowan

Bushes of Scotch broom, or just “broom”, Cytisus scoparius, and common juniper, Juniperus communis, are found dotted around the loch. Both are quite common understorey shrubs here, but the juniper grows in denser stands in other parts of linked woodland, such as in Glen Feshie.

Black pods that look like pea pods or mangetout. — The seed pods of broom, *Cytisus scoparius*. While this plant is in the pea family, and the pods resemble edible legumes such as mangetout, broom is toxic and should not be consumed. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

sharp, spikey foliage arranged in whorls of three with stomatal bands on the concave surface of the leaves (common juniper foliage). — The foliage of common juniper, *Juniperus communis*, by the trail around Loch Morlich. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

A native tree species that often ends up being an understorey species in the presence of larger pines is rowan, or mountain ash, Sorbus aucuparia. This member of the rose family develops bright red berries that look like tiny apples. Raw they are unpalatable and mildly toxic due to some of the compounds in the fruit. Cooking, however, improves edibility and neutralises the toxic compounds. A classic use of the fruits is to make a rowan jelly.

Rowan tree with berries in a Caledonian forest near to Loch Morlich — Understorey rowan with red berries, Loch Morlich. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Pinnate compound tree leaf with six pairs of leaflets and one terminal leaflet. Leaflets have serrated edges. Autumnal colouration of rich yellow. — The feather-like leaf of rowan, turning an autumnal yellow. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

hairy bud on twig with many bud scars — The bud of rowan resembles the abdomen of a hairy spider. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Improve Your Tree & Plant Identification

Would you like to strengthen your ability to identify northern temperate species such as those featured above? Take a look at my Tree & Plant Identification Masterclass. It is aimed squarely at people who want to be able to identify species for the purposes of bushcraft and survival.
Find out more here: identificationmasterclass.com

Continuing Westward Around Loch Morlich

I encountered a number of other interesting common plants (and fungi) along the southern part of the trail, as I headed toward the western end of the loch…

small nettle growth in October — Fresh growth of stinging nettles, *Urtica dioica* like this make good eating, even in the autumn or winter. Read my article on foraging for winter greens for more information on perennials and winter annuals. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

trifolate leaf structure of wood sorrel — Wood sorrel, *Oxalis acetosella* is a common plant here. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Large velvety green plant leaves that look a bit like comfrey — Foxglove, *Digitalis purpurea*, leaf rosette. This is a highly toxic plant you should know how to differentiate from edible species. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Sage-like plant growing wild in Scotland. — Wood sage, *Teucrium scorodonia*. See the article linked below for more information on this common and widespread plant. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Red capped mushroom with white spots and white stem coming up through pine needles — A fly agaric, *Amanita muscaria*, coming up under pines, with which this species of fungus is often associated. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

White rose-like flowers on small plant with lacy foliage. — Yarrow, *Achillea millefolium*, and important medicinal plant, still in flower. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

fireweed or rosebay willowherb with fluffy seeds — A stand of rosebay willowherb, a.k.a. fireweed, *Chamerion angustifolium*, gone to seed. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Heading Eastwards Along The North Shore of Loch Morlich

There is a road along the north shore of Loch Morlich and there is also a cycle trail that runs parallel to it. So once I had crossed the bridge over the River Luineag, I also crossed the road and walked the cycle trail through the woods to the north of the loch. Along the forest trail, there were more common, widespread plants and trees worth noting.

In 1935 Glenmore Forest was given the name “Queen’s Forest” to commemorate the Silver Jubilee of King George and Queen Mary. The plaque commemorating this can be found close to the forest trail.

Calm river flowing out of Loch Morlich in the Scottish Highlands, surrounded by autumnal deciduous trees and native pines — The River Luineag flows out of the northwestern corner of Loch Morlich. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Plaque attached to stone structure stating Queen's Forest. — The Queen’s Forest plaque in Glenmore Forest. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Yellow flowers that look a bit like daisy flowers. — The flowers and seed heads of ragwort, *Senecio jabobaea*. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

small shiny fern leaves — Hard fern, *Blechnum spicant*. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

A number of plants on the ground including plantain — The leaves and seeds of broadleaf plantain, *Plantago major*, a useful edible and medicinal plant. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

A leaf with a light greeny-grey underside. — The leaves of raspberry, *Rubus idaeus*, have a light greeny-grey underside. Scottish raspberries are amongst the best. Unfortunately their season had long passed by October. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

Bundles of needles that look like overused paintbrushes, emanating from woody stubs — Larch foliage turning colour. Larches are deciduous. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

A Circuit Of Loch Morlich – Good For Your Legs and Lungs

As I approached Glenmore Forest Park visitor centre again, my walk was coming to a close. My legs a felt better for a walk after being confined to a canoe all week and my lungs felt good for the fresh air. Indeed the air quality here is very good. Lichens are very sensitive to pollution, so the amount of lichen around Loch Morlich is a good indicator of the air quality here. This is yet another reason why people are drawn to Loch Morlich for recreation

lichen growth on a silver birch tree. — Lichen is abundant around Loch Morlich, here growing on a birch tree. Photo: Paul Kirtley.

I hope you enjoyed accompanying me on this edition of wild wanderings. Let me know your biggest take-away or favourite part of this piece in the comments section below…

What Are These Wild Wanderings Blogs Anyway?

Wild Wanderings is a series of photoblogs of elements of nature which, having caught my eye while out and about, I want to share with you and other readers. These observations are typically related to tree and plant identification, animal tracks and sign, along with other aspects of natural history or human history that pertain to bushcraft and survival skills.

These blogs do not always contain much written explanation other than concise photo captions. This is intentional, as writing long descriptions, including background facts or a large amount of context, whether it be historical or contemporary, slows down the sharing of these images with you.

Photographic Kit

The above photos were mostly taken with the diminutive yet powerful Leica D-Lux (Typ 109).

Improve Your Tree and Plant Identification Skills

Would you like to improve your ability to identify useful trees and plants? I offer an online tree and plant identification course, which flows through the seasons. Find out more about the next available course by clicking the following link: Paul Kirtley’s Tree and Plant Identification Masterclass

Recommended Plant Books:

The following field guides will be a good starter…
Collins Wild Flower Guide
Collins Complete (Photographic) Guide To Wild Flowers
The Wild Flower Key

See my complete list of recommended nature guides for the UK and Europe.

Related Material On This Site You Might Also Like…

Wild Wanderings 11: The Dandenongs – Strangers In A Strange Land

Wild Wanderings 6: River Spey Canoe Journey

Wild Wanderings 3 – Windermere Waterside

Winter Hillwalking – Essential Skills And Equipment

Paul Kirtley Podcast 008: Chris Townsend, Backpacking Legend

As Thick As A Capercaillie: How To Build A Long Log Fire

8 thoughts on “Wild Wanderings 12 – Loch Morlich: A Gem Of The Cairngorms National Park”

Anthony Tallack (oldtimer) says:

at 12:00

I really enjoyed this even if it made me wish I was still young and fit enough to do the walk myself. Alas, now I’m in my 80s vicarious experiences like this become important. Thanks for triggering memories of my own past wild wanderings.

1. Paul Kirtley says:
  
  at 13:26
  
  Hi Anthony, it’s good to hear from you. Thanks for your comments – I’m glad you enjoyed your virtual walk with me 🙂
  
  Warm regards,
  
  Paul
  
Scott says:

at 17:27

A pleasure to an accompany you on your walk through such beautiful country Paul. To connect and engage with nature in such a way as you describe is what makes those experiences all the more special. My son and I were out woods walking at the weekend to collect for his ‘Signs of Autumn’ school project. I must say, a very proud Dad I am to see him already take keen interest and learn about the world around him in nature. Brilliant stuff as always, thanks Paul

David says:

at 18:34

Thank you Paul, another good article, I particularily like that you found lots of Bilberry and some Lingon 🙂

Andy Wood says:

at 18:52

Thoroughly enjoyed that Paul, loved the detail on all counts – historical, geographical, botanical and the hyperlinks are great (particularly molotov cocktail ha!)

all the best,

Andy

Norman says:

at 19:45

A good read Paul,
Looks like you’ve had a good time in the Cairngorm. I’ve spent a bit of time myself around Loch Morlich in the late nineties and early noughties.
I was particularly interested in your tale of the SOE who until the last few years went under a lot of peoples’ radar. A high number of SOE who went into occupied europe were women. When captured by the Germans (often due to collaborators) what they went through during interogation (both men and women) was barbaric. These were very brave people
I have another book by David Howarth called The Sledge Patrol It’s a cracking read, it’s set in Greenland and I would recommend you have a read of it. It’s a true tale depicting how a very small force outwitted and escaped a large contingency of well armed German troops in atrocious conditions. It really is a tale of human endurance and skill.
Glad to see you getting stuck into the Bleaberries. I hear a lot of people say ” I’m not eating those, you don’t know what has relieved themselves on them” Well keep it up, more for us. They’re the same with brambles too.
Anyway good to hear from you. We’re off with Ben tomorrow for a Funghi forraging day, bloody awful weather forecast, but the fry up and debrief in the pub afterwards will be good.
Hope our paths will cross again.
All the best
Norman

Ste Tomlinson says:

at 20:12

An excellent day out Paul. Thanks for sharing it with us. I had Spinal surgery last year and had a couple of complications, that meant I had to learn to walk again. It’s affected my self confidence to go on “rough paths”, I.e. not a pavement! So I’ve gone from hill walking, multi day trips with my tarp set up to reading about others doing it! I’m determined to get back out there properly next Spring, so until then keep them coming!

Naomi Tayler says:

at 22:56

Sounds like a lovely location, one I’ll have to add to my long list of places to visit! I’m envious of your luck with blaeberries – the last two years have seen acres of bushes locally produce next to nothing!

Paul Kirtley

Wilderness Bushcraft. Survival Skills. Outdoor Life.